Monday, April 4, 2011

To Peel Or Not To Peel?


Trouble viewing this email? See the Web version
pure skin - esthetic studio

Greetings and a happy spring to you all!!
        
       I hope this newsletter reaches you all well and that this Spring wind (and snow) hasn't blown you away!! I have a few announcements to make  before getting into this months newsletter about chemical peels.
          
           First, the biggest announcement is that Pure Skin will be adding mani/pedi (no artificial nails) services to the current repertoire!! I realized that many of you get these services, and I am licensed to do them, so put 2 + 2 together = January doing skin care & nails!! (I likely won't be advertising for those services on my website yet, but feel free to pass the information on to any friends or family who might be looking.) 
                            

Pricing:
Mani: $18
Pedi: $35
             
      
     
     
    
      Second & finally, I am getting together some products for retail!! The skin care products I will be selling are by a company called Bioelements. I have used Bioelements for many years and I know they are a well designed professional skin care line and work well with the majority of skin types. They take the best elements of science and nature, and produce products that are effective and competitively priced. If you would like to learn more about this line, you can check their website at www.Bioelements.com
      Here is a list of the few beginning items & their prices that Pure Skin will be carrying:







Bioelements Flash Foam Cleanser 
Advanced enzyme cleanser that 
gently exfoliates skin; excellent for most skin types. 
This cleanser offers a 2 in 1 treatment - hello time-saver!!! It cleanses and gently exfoliates all in one step with the help of pumpkin, papaya & pineapple extracts. 
6.5 oz  $29.00
1.75 oz $12.00




Bioelements Beyond Hydration 
  
Oil-free moisture gel for all skin types except dry & extremely dry; non-greasy, lightweight and very refreshing, non-comedogenic. This moisturizer is fantastic!! It offers incredible hydration that you have to feel to believe. 
2.5 oz $30



Absolute Moisture
Balancing moisturizer for combination skin. This is a lightweight cream that absorbs quickly leaving no oily feel or shine. Excellent hydration for all skin types except for extremely dry.
2.5 oz. $28





CND Cucumber Heel Therapy
This is an intensive moisturizing complex with cucumber extract, chamomile & aloe to aid in the repair of dry, cracked skin. Translation: super soft happy feet! 
*This is an excellent cream for any area of the body that needs extra moisture, ie., elbows & knees.
2.6 oz. $ 15

  
     
      So that's where our retail begins! I will make sure to keep you up to date as I add more items based on everyone's needs & requests! Now, on to the newsletter. Enjoy!!                                        
     To Peel Or Not To Peel?   In this edition, we will be discussing the benefits of chemical peels, what the purpose of different acids are and what to expect with each type of acid used for it's particular chemical peel. For the purpose of this newsletter, chemical peels will be referred to from here on out as "peels". 
      First, what exactly is a chemical peel? A chemical peel is a treatment technique used to improve and smoothe the texture of the skin using a chemical solution that encourages the dead skin to slough off and sometimes peel. This treatment will reveal smoother, younger looking skin. 

Characteristics that can benefit from peels are:
* Hyperpigmentation (freckles, age spots, sun spots)
* Acne
* Fine lines
* Scarring

Characteritics that can not benefit from peels (*this means under the scope of the esthetician - deep wrinkles can be treated in a physician's office, but with a great cost and substantial downtime)
* Deep lines/wrinkles
* Sagging skin
* Bulging skin
     
      These skin issues require more invasive treatments such as botox, restylane (filler), collagen (filler) or even a face lift in order to correct the problem. 
      With all the different types of acids out there, how do you know which one to choose for what issue?  Ready for me to drop some knowledge on you? Here we go:
      
      Alpha Hydroxy Acids, also known as "AHA's", are naturally occuring fruit & milk acids and are the most well know and commonly used. These acids include, but are not limited to, glycolic acid (sugar cane juice derived), lactic acid (milk derived), citric acid (citrus fruit derived), malic acid (derived from apples) & tartaric acid (derived from grapes). These are the mildest and lightest peeling formulas. Alpha hydoxy acids are water soluble only, meaning they do not penetrate into the pores. This makes these acids best for treating hyperpigmentation and dry, uneven skin texture. These acids are not the best for fine lines or acne. The following photo is an example of a very high percentage glycolic peel. 


     
     Beta hydroxy acids or salicylic , are synthetically made and are lipid (fat) soluable making them an excellent choice for oily & acneic skin. This is due to their ability to penetrate into the pores containing sebum (oil) and exfoliating the dead skins cells within. They are effective for treating the problems listed above, hyperpigmentation & dry uneven skin texture but with the added benfit of being able to effectively treat acne as well as fine lines. This acid is becoming more and more popular due to it's less irritating nature than alpha hydoxy acids. If salicylic acid sounds familiar, that's because it's derived from Aspirin, acetylsalilcylic acid, which is an anti-inflammatory, hence the less irritation. One drawback of using salicylic acid is that, ironically, it can cause more sensitivity to sunlight. So if you are using a salicylic acid product regularly to treat hyperpigmentation, you should also be using an SPF to help prevent any pigment form returning.

    





This photo shows results from a series of salicylic peels - probably 3 or 4 treatments.
    
    
     
  
    
     

      Trichloracetic Acid, or TCA , is another synthetically made acid, but is stronger than the previous 2 types of acids. This acid is great for correcting fine lines, superficial blemishes & hyperpigmentation. This type of peel will have a visible peel whereas the previous 2 will only have a dry or flaking effect. If you have a glycolic or salicyclic peel, probably no one is going to notice any flking or dryness that mey occur, but with a TCA, it will be more noticeable for about a week. First you look sunburned, then it starts to get darker where you have extra pigment, then it starts to peel off. FUN!!!




    
This photo shows results from a 30% TCA peel (this strength can only be performed in a doctor's office). It is likely that this was after only 1 treatment.   
    
    
     


     Jessner's Peel is one you may have heard of. This peel is actually a specific blend of 14% salicylic acid, lactic acid & resorcinol. Resorcinol is a synthetic ingredient which is used to smooht the surface of the skin. These peels are highly effective at targeting hyperpigmentation (as you can see from the photo below) but also, like a TCA, have visible peeling. 









Before and after of a Jessner's Peel.
                      





       Phenol peels
are extremely deep peels requiring anesthesia and a good bit of down time. These peels can only be performed by a doctor and are the most extreme kind of peel availalble. Typically only 1 treatment is needed. *Note, earlier I mentioned that deep wrinkles cannot be treated by chemical peels - this type of peel will most definitely remove deep wrinkles, but again can only be performed by a doctor under anesthesia. Check ou this ladie's results below. *Note, it does appear that she has also had a facelift or something because her turkey neck has disappeared!!




        
        Phenol before                         Phenol after
     
  
   
     
    Well, all that being said I think I have covered this as best as I can for you, without melting my brain and hopefully not melting yours!!
    Please don't hesitate to call or email if you have any questions about chemical peels or if you think you would like a consultation.

303.513.9900 or january@pureskines.com

    It is my professional opinion that a series of chemical peels done by a well-trained esthetician are the most effective way to treat your hyperpigmentation, scarring, fine lines and acne with the most efficacy and the least amount of downtime. All our chemical peels are done in a series as they perform best when you do 4-6 over a period of about 6 months. All pre & post peel products are included in the price.
    Consultations are always complimentary!! A series of 6 peels runs $250, due at the time of the first peel service.

Until next month...
Your most humble skin, and nail, therapist,
January

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Pure Skin newsletter :Vitamin C

Hello and greetings to all!

         I hope that everyone has been enjoying the spring-like weather we have been having here in Denver and has had a chance to get outside and soak it in. After all, who knows how long it will last before we get dumped  on with a HUGE amount of snow!!

        This month's newsletter is going to focus on Vitamin C, mainly Vitamin C serums. (Thanks to a friend for the inspiration - you know who you are !!) We'll be discussing what to look for, what to avoid, active ingredients, pH levels, etc. Be forewarned, there is a lot of information in this newsletter and it's a long one! For the purposes of this newsletter, Vitamin C hereafter will be referred to as "C". Don't worry, you aren't reading a legal document.
Here goes...

       Many of you are aware of the mass amounts of C products available topically for skin care and there is good reason for manufacturers to create them. C does do great things for the skin! It is one of nature's best antioxidants and one of the few topical products that can visibly improve how your skin looks.  Considering the cornucopia of ingedients in skin care, C stands out as one that can make a diffence in just about anyone's skin. I do believe that a high quality C serum is a welcome addition to a basic skin care regimen. 

Here are some lovely & important properties of C:

* Reduces inflammation (great for sunburns & mild acne)
* Minimizes the appearance of fine lines
* Stimulates collagen production
* Enhances the effectiveness of peels & microdermabrasion
* Lessens hyper pigmentation (at levels of 5% and above)
* Improves the appearance of sun-damaged skin
        
          In correct formulations, it penetrates the skin easily whereas in incorrect formulations, it's efficacy is less than desirable. So, with all the C products out there, how do you know which one to choose? The defining factors for choosing an effective  C serum include knowing which form of C to look for, what percentage of C is in the formulation and the pH level of the serum. Let's begin with the different forms of C.
         
          These are the most common forms of C used in cosmetics listed as follows, in huge scientific words :
*
* Ascorbic Acid                
* Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
* L-Ascorbic Acid             
* Retinyl Ascorbate
* Ascorbyl Palmitate           
* Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
* Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

         What is the difference between all these types of C & why would a manufacturer choose one type over another?The main difference is stability. C is a somewhat unstable antioxidant, but some forms are more stable than others. For example, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is much more stable form of C making it a very widely used choice in cosmetics, but it's efficacy is less than desirable, if effective at all. It appears that the form, L-Ascorbic Acid, is the best & most effective form of C that can be used, but it is the least stable. Meaning it can turn from it's clear (or as close to clear as the manufacturer allows) color to yellow to brown in no time if exposed to heat, light & air. When this happens, it has become dehydroascorbic acid. This is the inactive form of C, which is an oxidant and should be thrown out. More manufacturers are using L-Ascorbic Acid because of how well it works, but they have to take precautions to guard against it degrading too quickly. A dark or opaque colored container with an airtight lid is the best choice for L-Ascorbic Acid to help prevent the C from degrading too quickly. This is highly recommended when looking for a C serum to keep it lasting to it's potential.
   
         What is the correct percentage of C for it to be effective? Typically, anything between 10% and 20% is the correct concentration to be effective. However, more sensitive skin should stay closer to the lower percentage due to the possibility of irritation and redness occurring at higher concentrations. Using a higher percentage of C can also make you more photosensitive, meaning you can burn in the sun easier than if you weren't using a C serum. In this case, a sunscreen (nothing over an SPF 15, preferably, because one can develop a sensitivity to the active sunscreen ingredients) can help counteract that.

       Finally, what is the correct pH level & how do I find that information? The proper pH for a C serum should be formulated  at 3.5 or lower for it to be properly absorbed. *Note that in higher formulations AND lower pH levels (2.5 or lower, to be specific), it can be very irritating and should be avoided by more sensitive skin types. Some manufacturers already list the pH levels of their serums on their websites and/or on their packaging. If it is not listed, you can easily contact them and most are pretty good at responding  in a day or two with the information you requested.

       In conclusion, it appears that a C serum should be formulated with L-Ascorbic Acid, in concentrations of 10%-20%, at a pH level of 3.5 or lower.

       Now for the fun part! I took the liberty of doing a comparative analysis of some C serums, comparing the characteristics that were just discussed. The one thing that hasn't been discussed yet is pricing. As you will see, there is a HUGE range when it comes to pricing, from $19.99 all the way to $142.00. Interestingly most of theses are the same amount of product, 1 ounce. Enjoy!

(Listed in order alphabetically)
Cellex - C Advanced C serum
20% L-Ascorbic Acid
pH range 3.7-3.9
$115.00 retail
1 Oz.



*Not recommended as it is formulated at too high of a pH to be effective and at the high cost, it is far from economical.



Cellular Skin Rx C+Firming  Serum
12% L-Ascorbic Acid
pH level 3.0-3.5
Cost $38
1 Oz.

*Recommended as it is formulated at the correct concentration, pH and it's priced well. This formula would also be good for a more senstive skin type.


MyChelle Dermaceuticals
The Perfect C Serum
17 % Ascorbic Acid
pH level unknown (tried to contact the company, but have had no response)
Cost $41.79
0.5 Oz.




* Not recommended due to the type of C and due to the lack of pH information.





NuFountain Fresh Cosmetics
     C20+Ferulic 20% Vitamin C Gel
20% L-Ascorbic Acid
pH level 2.5-3.0
Cost $21.99
1 Oz.

*Recommended as it meets all the necessary criteria for a C serum AND it's extremely cost effective!
*Note* This manufacturer makes these products fresh when you order them. This is great because you know it hasn't been sitting on a shelf, oxidizing.

NuFountain Fresh Cosmetics
      C20 Vitamin C Serum
20% L-Ascorbic Acid
pH level  2.5-3.0
Cost $19.99
1 Oz.

*Recommended as it meets all the necessary criteria for a C serum to be effective, and again it's very cost effective!



Skinceuticals C E Ferulic
15% L-Ascorbic Acid
pH level 2.9-3.2
Cost $142.00
1 Oz.






* Recommended as it meets all the necessary criteria for a C serum to be effective.That being said, this product is not priced competitively and simlilar serums offer the same if not better results for a better price.




WHEW!!! I'm spent !! This was a large amount of research and my brain is a little melted. I hope that you were able to get as much out of this newsletter as I have. One of the beautiful things about being a skin therapist (at least for myself), is being able to do research like this and learn! This whole journey is a wonderfully evolving learning process and I am happy to be able to share it with you!

If you have any questions regarding this newsletter or any product information listed within, just email me at january@pureskines.com and I will be happy to get back to you!!

Your most humble skin therapist,

January

Saturday, February 19, 2011

Moving on to greener pastures

fh
I am happy and proud to announce that Pure Skin Esthetic Studio has moved to a fabulous new location...my house! I took over the office and converted it to my studio!! 
It took a little bit of work to take it from a drab & dull office to a nice warm cozy place to practice skin care!
 
                                               My color palette inspiration above
 


finished.... 
 project!!!!




























I am also happy to announce that with this move comes new hours! I am currently scheduling appointments Wednesday through Saturday, 10-6.
You can also check the website, www.pureskines.com for other information or you can contact me at january@pureskines.com for scheduling or other general questions.
Stay tuned for more updates on specials & newsletter topics.


Til next time...


Your Most Humble Skin Therapist,
~January

Thursday, September 23, 2010

I am a cooking machine

So I have had a fascination with Julia Childs since seeing the movie "Julie & Julia", and it inspired me to get her 2 volume set of Mastering The Art of French Cooking. That woman knew what she was talking about!! Not to mention, the recipes are laid out in such a way that anyone who can read can cook like this. Just like Julie said in the movie, it's like she's in the kitchen with me.
I experimented first with the Boeuf  Bourguignonne (Beef stew in Red Wine, with Bacon, Onions & Mushrooms). I admit to omitting the mushrooms because I cannot stand them , but otherwise completely stuck to the recipe and after 3 hours in the oven, simmering slowly, it turned out BEAUTIFULLY!! Now, I unfortunately cannot use Jason as a taster due to his vegetarianism, however, Dawn & Andy happened to be here and they were happy to test the recipe and I am glad to say they had 2 servings and complimented me up & down. It was all Julia though, I just followed the recipe.
Last night I decided to make her Gratin Jurassien (Scalloped potatos w/cream & cheese) along with Carottes Glaces (Glazed carrots) and a filet mignon. The 2 side dishes are vegetarian so Jason was happy to try them both (along with the rigatoni & vodka sauce he had for dinner) and then  proceeding to fall into a carb coma on the couch. SUCCESS!! The potatos turned out perfect!! I had no idea that for this type of recipe you use what is called a "boiling" potato (ie., red potato or yukon gold) because they are less starchy and hold their shape better when cooked versus a russet potato which is very starchy and gets mushy - hence why they are perfect for baking!!  The carrots also turned out great, and I had no idea that a little vegetable broth, butter & a touch of sugar could make a cooked carrot sooo tasty.

So I took a few photos to show the process (all of which was quite easy). *Can I recommend  for slicing the potatoes that if you have a food processor that has a slicing blade, use that instead of trying to hand slice all the potatoes. It saves a good deal of time.*







My cooking bible











Before











Putting her in the oven...











After - YUM!!











All this yummy food in my MULTH







Wonder what recipe I'll try next....