| Hello and greetings to all!
I hope that everyone has been enjoying the spring-like weather we have been having here in Denver and has had a chance to get outside and soak it in. After all, who knows how long it will last before we get dumped on with a HUGE amount of snow!!
This month's newsletter is going to focus on Vitamin C, mainly Vitamin C serums. (Thanks to a friend for the inspiration - you know who you are !!) We'll be discussing what to look for, what to avoid, active ingredients, pH levels, etc. Be forewarned, there is a lot of information in this newsletter and it's a long one! For the purposes of this newsletter, Vitamin C hereafter will be referred to as "C". Don't worry, you aren't reading a legal document. Here goes...
Many of you are aware of the mass amounts of C products available topically for skin care and there is good reason for manufacturers to create them. C does do great things for the skin! It is one of nature's best antioxidants and one of the few topical products that can visibly improve how your skin looks. Considering the cornucopia of ingedients in skin care, C stands out as one that can make a diffence in just about anyone's skin. I do believe that a high quality C serum is a welcome addition to a basic skin care regimen.
Here are some lovely & important properties of C:
* Reduces inflammation (great for sunburns & mild acne) * Minimizes the appearance of fine lines * Stimulates collagen production * Enhances the effectiveness of peels & microdermabrasion * Lessens hyper pigmentation (at levels of 5% and above) * Improves the appearance of sun-damaged skin In correct formulations, it penetrates the skin easily whereas in incorrect formulations, it's efficacy is less than desirable. So, with all the C products out there, how do you know which one to choose? The defining factors for choosing an effective C serum include knowing which form of C to look for, what percentage of C is in the formulation and the pH level of the serum. Let's begin with the different forms of C. These are the most common forms of C used in cosmetics listed as follows, in huge scientific words : * * Ascorbic Acid * Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate * L-Ascorbic Acid * Retinyl Ascorbate * Ascorbyl Palmitate * Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate * Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
What is the difference between all these types of C & why would a manufacturer choose one type over another?The main difference is stability. C is a somewhat unstable antioxidant, but some forms are more stable than others. For example, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is much more stable form of C making it a very widely used choice in cosmetics, but it's efficacy is less than desirable, if effective at all. It appears that the form, L-Ascorbic Acid, is the best & most effective form of C that can be used, but it is the least stable. Meaning it can turn from it's clear (or as close to clear as the manufacturer allows) color to yellow to brown in no time if exposed to heat, light & air. When this happens, it has become dehydroascorbic acid. This is the inactive form of C, which is an oxidant and should be thrown out. More manufacturers are using L-Ascorbic Acid because of how well it works, but they have to take precautions to guard against it degrading too quickly. A dark or opaque colored container with an airtight lid is the best choice for L-Ascorbic Acid to help prevent the C from degrading too quickly. This is highly recommended when looking for a C serum to keep it lasting to it's potential. What is the correct percentage of C for it to be effective? Typically, anything between 10% and 20% is the correct concentration to be effective. However, more sensitive skin should stay closer to the lower percentage due to the possibility of irritation and redness occurring at higher concentrations. Using a higher percentage of C can also make you more photosensitive, meaning you can burn in the sun easier than if you weren't using a C serum. In this case, a sunscreen (nothing over an SPF 15, preferably, because one can develop a sensitivity to the active sunscreen ingredients) can help counteract that.
Finally, what is the correct pH level & how do I find that information? The proper pH for a C serum should be formulated at 3.5 or lower for it to be properly absorbed. *Note that in higher formulations AND lower pH levels (2.5 or lower, to be specific), it can be very irritating and should be avoided by more sensitive skin types. Some manufacturers already list the pH levels of their serums on their websites and/or on their packaging. If it is not listed, you can easily contact them and most are pretty good at responding in a day or two with the information you requested.
In conclusion, it appears that a C serum should be formulated with L-Ascorbic Acid, in concentrations of 10%-20%, at a pH level of 3.5 or lower.
Now for the fun part! I took the liberty of doing a comparative analysis of some C serums, comparing the characteristics that were just discussed. The one thing that hasn't been discussed yet is pricing. As you will see, there is a HUGE range when it comes to pricing, from $19.99 all the way to $142.00. Interestingly most of theses are the same amount of product, 1 ounce. Enjoy!
(Listed in order alphabetically) Cellex - C Advanced C serum 20% L-Ascorbic Acid pH range 3.7-3.9 $115.00 retail 1 Oz.
*Not recommended as it is formulated at too high of a pH to be effective and at the high cost, it is far from economical.
Cellular Skin Rx C+Firming Serum 12% L-Ascorbic Acid pH level 3.0-3.5 Cost $38 1 Oz.
*Recommended as it is formulated at the correct concentration, pH and it's priced well. This formula would also be good for a more senstive skin type.
MyChelle Dermaceuticals The Perfect C Serum 17 % Ascorbic Acid pH level unknown (tried to contact the company, but have had no response) Cost $41.79 0.5 Oz.
* Not recommended due to the type of C and due to the lack of pH information.
NuFountain Fresh Cosmetics C20+Ferulic 20% Vitamin C Gel 20% L-Ascorbic Acid pH level 2.5-3.0 Cost $21.99 1 Oz.
*Recommended as it meets all the necessary criteria for a C serum AND it's extremely cost effective! *Note* This manufacturer makes these products fresh when you order them. This is great because you know it hasn't been sitting on a shelf, oxidizing.
NuFountain Fresh Cosmetics C20 Vitamin C Serum 20% L-Ascorbic Acid pH level 2.5-3.0 Cost $19.99 1 Oz.
*Recommended as it meets all the necessary criteria for a C serum to be effective, and again it's very cost effective!
Skinceuticals C E Ferulic 15% L-Ascorbic Acid pH level 2.9-3.2 Cost $142.00 1 Oz.
* Recommended as it meets all the necessary criteria for a C serum to be effective.That being said, this product is not priced competitively and simlilar serums offer the same if not better results for a better price.
WHEW!!! I'm spent !! This was a large amount of research and my brain is a little melted. I hope that you were able to get as much out of this newsletter as I have. One of the beautiful things about being a skin therapist (at least for myself), is being able to do research like this and learn! This whole journey is a wonderfully evolving learning process and I am happy to be able to share it with you!
If you have any questions regarding this newsletter or any product information listed within, just email me at january@pureskines.com and I will be happy to get back to you!!
Your most humble skin therapist,
January | 
